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Herb and Reno's accounts of their trip to Buenos Aires, Argentina
March 7, 2011
Wow, I can hardly believe we are here in Buenos Aires, Argentina. We flew all night, 10 hours plus, leaning on one another, trying to catch some sleep. Immigration and customs were relatively easy, but the lin-ups were long. We were required to purchase visas to enter the country, something we were not expecting in Argentina.
Nuno, our guide, and Facundo, support vehicle driver, were waiting for us when we exited the baggage claim area. So easy. They loaded us into the truck and drove us directly to the Panamericano Hotel in downtown Buenos Aires. Elegant, but with touches of tropical decay around the edges.
We planned our trip to arrive two days early so we have time to relax and renew before going on the road with the motorcycles. After freshening up in our room we walked to the Puerto Madera, where we sat on the patio of the Claxxon restaurant, sampling the local cervasa and watching the sailboats slip in and out of the harbor. Sweet. The bread rolls were delectable, crusty and golden brown on the outside, soft and white on the inside. We ate our pasta slowly as the pigeons strutted and the lovers strolled past our table. I can already tell that the food will be a highlight of our trip.
Weather is perfect, mild, moist, and overcast.
Cheers, Herb
Ditto. All is well. A little punchy from too little sleep so I am glad we have tonight to catch up and be at our freshest tomorrow.
South America certainly has a different feel to it. Herb has said it well, and I will add more after I catch up on my Zzzz´s...
Ciao! Reno
March 9, 2011
I am on a very slow connection and an unusual keyboard, so it will take some time to write + haven´t figured out the capitals yet. I am writing you from Punta Del Este in Uruguay, a beautiful town on the Atlantic Ocean, and the Mantra Resort where we are staying is definitely 5 star all the way. Herb is starting to get used to this!
Last night in Buenos Aires we saw the most amazing tango show - absolutely incredible mix of Bandeneon music, athletic tango dancing, gaucho acrobatics, and the best beef i have ever eaten - sorry, Alberta, Canada. Hey, I figured out the capital letters. Today was our first actual riding day, and after an hour ferry ride from BA to Uruguay, we started on the road. Put together a bit of cleaner Mexico with a bit of Alberta, throw in a few palm trees, you have southern Uruguay. Drivers are polite even if they need less personal space, and the roads were good. Lunch on a patio on the ocean included a huge helping of fish for Herb and a very large pizza for Chip. Herb took a dip in the pool while I sat on the patio to write in my journal. We are headed out to dinner, and if the trend keeps going, we are going to enjoy another great meal.
Reno
This is Herb now. The bike we are riding is a 2008 R1200GS with almost 40,000 km on the odometer. After riding 365 km today I am very pleased with the ride. Everything works. Well, the group is leaving for dinner.
Cheers,
Herb
Last night in Buenos Aires we saw the most amazing tango show - absolutely incredible mix of Bandeneon music, athletic tango dancing, gaucho acrobatics, and the best beef i have ever eaten - sorry, Alberta, Canada. Hey, I figured out the capital letters. Today was our first actual riding day, and after an hour ferry ride from BA to Uruguay, we started on the road. Put together a bit of cleaner Mexico with a bit of Alberta, throw in a few palm trees, you have southern Uruguay. Drivers are polite even if they need less personal space, and the roads were good. Lunch on a patio on the ocean included a huge helping of fish for Herb and a very large pizza for Chip. Herb took a dip in the pool while I sat on the patio to write in my journal. We are headed out to dinner, and if the trend keeps going, we are going to enjoy another great meal.
Reno
This is Herb now. The bike we are riding is a 2008 R1200GS with almost 40,000 km on the odometer. After riding 365 km today I am very pleased with the ride. Everything works. Well, the group is leaving for dinner.
Cheers,
Herb
March 10, 2011
Hello again from Uruguay.
We spent the day skittering along the edge of the South American continent, frequently within sight of the ocean. We rode in and out of rain squalls all day, and at times the wind was very strong. All part of the experience. I am exactly where in the world I want to be at this moment.
This morning we left the world famou sbeach community of Punta del Esta, where we stayed at the Mantra Resort. After crossing a river on a small wooden ferry, we travelled a long stretch of gravel road, one section of it made slick by the rain. A true adventure.
We are seeing a lot of motorcycles on the roads. Most of them are small displacement machines, moving at a slower speed than our caravan of BMW's. But we have seen other BMW riders, several of them Brazilian riders returning from Carnavel in Argentina.
Lunch today was at another beachside restaurant in the town of Agues Dulces. Translated, the name means Sweet Water. We exchanged road stories beneath the canopy as the rain beat down around us. By the time we finished our meal the sun was shining and the wind had died down. Life is good.
Tonight we are staying at El Fortin de San Miguel, a granite fortress built in 1734 during hostilities between Spain and Portugal. I am impressed with all of the people traveling with us, all competent riders and good story tellers. Our group includes ranchers from Montana, a chiropractor from Florida, a female sea captain from California, and a tech school plumbing instructor and his hotel accountant wife from Alberta. Our guides Nuno and Facundo from Ayers Adventures fit right in and enhance what is already a first class experience.
Cheers,
Herb
March 12, 2011
As soon as we crossed into Brazil it started to rain. And rain. And rain. The rain varied between heavy and torrential. Finally Reno abandoned the motorcycle and took refuge in the support truck. A washed out bridge neccessitated a change in our route. But in spite of the wet, I really enjoyed the ride.
We saw several capybaras near the road. The capybara is the worlds largest rodent, about the size of a hog, but with a body shaped more like a hippopotamus. We saw black storks, and white ones too. Reno saw a couple of pink ones. I saw a lot of birds I didnt recognize. South America has a lot of species unknown on the northern continent. Different species of animals, too. Even the road kill is unrecognizable.
There is no better motorcycle in the world for this kind of trip than a BMW R1200GS; nothing even comes close. Well, maybe the 800.
Time to leave the Mercure Apt. Manhattan in Porto Alegre where we spent the night. The road is calling.
March 13, 2011
I hear the sound of ping pong being played wildly and think Herb and Bert are having a before-dinner round. We are `holed` up in the Rio do Rastro Eco Resort in the mountains of Brazil, a lush resort in the mountains which emphasizes ecological ways of doing business.
Herb had an absolute blast today, taking the GS around the twisties, and I just hung on. The vistas were breath-taking, and the hills and valleys lush and verdant. Brazil is beautiful in the fall, which is the season we are in now, being south of the equator.
Last night we stayed in the German settlement town of Gramado, at the absolutely gorgeous St. Hubertus Inn, complete with Swan boat rides on the river, and Brazilian BBQ for dinner. The hotel was not only the cleanest, most comfortable, and the most lovely, the staff treated us like royalty. I did not want to leave!! I even got a couple of hours of shopping in the afternoon, as Brazilian leather is wonderful, and of course a pair of shoes was necessary!
From Gramado, we travelled a few more miles and went to an absolutely stunning waterfall, even if we did have to climb down 751 steps to do it. Going down was okay, but the 751 steps back up to the top was a killer. Val almost did not make it, but she still said it was worth it.
March 14, 2011
For the past two days we have enjoyed some of the best riding I have ever experienced. These Brazilian mountain roads are incredible. Endless twisties and awe-inspiring mountain vistas that seem to go on forever. This is definitely what I came looking for in South America. Reno and I are enjoying two-up riding more than ever before. The GS has been flawless.
And did I tell you about the food? A serious oversight. The food in Brazil is surpassing excellent. I have now travelled in 38 countries, and prior to this trip it was my considered opinion that Mexico had the best food in the world. Now I rate Brazil number one, Mexico number two. I have never been to Italy, but I have partied with people who have, and they tell me that Italy is also a strong contender in the food fight.
Last night we stayed in an eco-resort in the mountains. Pictures of previous guests included Ewen McGregor of Long Way Round/Down fame. Tonite we are in a five-star city hotel. The only thing our accomodations have had in common is that they have been the very best.
Each day brings something different and new. I can hardly wait to see what tomorrow will bring. But first, I have to go with friends to eat another succulent Brazilian steak
March 17,2011
Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Another long day on the road brought us back to Argentina, many hundreds of kilometers north of our beginning point in Buenos Airies. The weather was really hot, but nobody was complaining because at the end of the day we were able to relax a the Sheraton Iguazu Resort and Spa, located inside the Parque Nacional Iguazu.
The people we have travelled with on this adventure have been terrific travel companions. Not one word of complaint from anybody, not even once. I would be delighted to share another road trip with any or all of our companions, and hope to stay in touch with all of them.
It is a point of satisfaction to me that on this Grass Roots BMW sponsored adventure, nobody dropped a motorcycle, not so much as a gas station tip-over. Each of the individuals riding with us was highly competent, not timid, able to manage risk in a foreign and complex environment.
The first night at Iguasu, Bert and Val introduced us to caparhienia, a Brazilian drink made with one whole lime, thinly sliced, ice, sugar, and cachaca (sugar cane liquor). Very tasty, and sneaky. At dinner I consumed an enormous beef tenderloin, medium rare, perfect. It is worth coming to Argentina just to eat the beef.
Yesterday morning before dawn I was up on the rooftop terrace, watching the sun rise over the Falls. As the sky lightened and Venus faded into oblivion, I began to get some idea of the scope and immensity of Iguaso Falls. Colorful toucans glided through the air and perched on nearby trees. The sun climbed above the eastern horizon. Another dawns in paradise.
What a great time we have had here. Long, liesurely breakfast, hiking, boating right up to the falls and getting soaked in the process, swimming, riding the train, drinking red wine, laughing with friends. Awesome.
Soon we will be heading home. I am so appreciate for the great team at Grass Roots keeping things going while I am away. Looking forward to seeing you all soon.
Cheers,
Herb
Grass Roots BMW Motorcycles
Sales and Service of BMW Motorcycles
28 South Spanish Street | Cape Girardeau | Missouri 63703
1-800-888-1BMW (1269) or 573-334-7223
Tuesday to Friday 9 am to 5:30 pm
Saturday 9 am to 4 pm
Closed Sunday and Monday
Content copyright . Grass Roots BMW Motorcycles. All rights reserved.
Sales and Service of BMW Motorcycles
28 South Spanish Street | Cape Girardeau | Missouri 63703
1-800-888-1BMW (1269) or 573-334-7223
Tuesday to Friday 9 am to 5:30 pm
Saturday 9 am to 4 pm
Closed Sunday and Monday
Content copyright . Grass Roots BMW Motorcycles. All rights reserved.
